GOING ARCTIC

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Change is just around the corner and as we feel that mid-September nip in the air, Winter brides are thinking about what fabrics and silhouettes will whip up nicely for a cold weather wedding. Getting married in a sub-zero clime shouldn't be a hassle for you or your guests with a little forethought and planning. While there are some heavier and beautiful winter fabrics out there like brocades and peau de soie, any gown can be winterized with a little ingenuity. Add gloves, a muff and shawl and you'll be surprised how warm you'll be. These gorgeous gowns offer just the touch of inspiration for winter brides . . .

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Stand out in your arctic circle, caressed by a tower of slim sparkle. Silver and gold paillettes turn up the wattage on a lace gown with chiffon-wrap detail, about $6,490, by Elizabeth Fillmore, elizabethfillmorebridal.com. Mother-of-pearl flower cuff, by Iradj Moini, iradjmoini.com.

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The Russian revival lives on, thanks to statement pieces—a beaded bolero, a fur hat—that evoke Eastern European elegance. The ivory silk-taffeta three-tiered gown has a crystal-beaded neckline and straps, about $2,530, by Jim Hjelm by Francesca Pitera, jimhjelmvisions.com. Silk-brocade jacket with crystal trim, about $5,500, by Cynthia Rose, 212-242-6133. Leopard-print fox hat, by Anne Dee Goldin, goldinfeldman.com. Earrings, by Iradj Moini, iradjmoini.com.

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A Swarovski crystal-embroidered satin bodice floats on a cloud of draped silk-tulle. Chase the chill with a stole slung over your shoulder, about $11,625, by Evalina Schmidtke Couture, evalinacouture.com. Fox stole, by Cassin, 212-564-0946. Necklace, by MEG Jewelry, megweddingjewelry.com



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Size matters this season, as the balloon-shaped ball gown steals the spotlight. Turn up your volume with a billowing, iridescent sequined skirt and a blue-and-silver Chantilly lace bodice with ribbon detail. Fur blanket, by Adrienne Landau, adriennelandau.com. Earrings, by Diego for Jaded, jadedjewels.com.

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Moscow goes mainstream with a trendsetting double-face satin coatdress featuring Victorian-style floral embroidery, blouson sleeves, and a belted waist, about $3,940, by Reva Mivasagar, revadesigns.com. Woven fox hat, by Cassin, 212-564-0946. Embroidered boots, by Edoche, edoche.com. Earrings, by Diego for Jaded, jadedjewels.com.


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A hand-embroidered organza confection is unforgettably feminine, thanks to tiers of poetic pleats and Swarovski crystal-beaded bands, about $5,890, by St. Pucchi Couture, stpucchi.com. Coyote muff, by Anne Dee Goldin, goldinfeldman.com. Aquamarine necklace, by Iradj Moini, iradjmoini.com.

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Lace gets an update when it's shaded in a powder-soft hue. A romantic gown with bubble skirt combines ice-blue silk mikado and silver French lace to ravishing effect, about $4,500, by Tomasina, tomasina.com. Multistrand Austrian crystal necklace and pendant, by R.J. Graziano 212-685-1248.

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It's your time to shine in a slender strapless column of white satin, overlaid with gold metallic chiffon. A retro rabbit cover offers climate control of a charming kind. Dress, about $4,990, and bolero, about $650, both by Lara Hélène Bridal Atelier, larahelene.com. Woven-mink headband, by Cassin, 212-564-0946. Multistone enamel earrings and multistone bracelet, by Diego for Jaded, jadedjewels.com. Mother-of-pearl flower necklace by Iradj Moini, iradjmoini.com.

VISUAL POETRY

Winter Wolf Studios

Sin of self-love possesseth all mine eye,
And all my soul, and all my every part;
And for this sin there is no remedy,
It is so grounded inward in my heart.
Methinks no face so gracious is as mine,
No shape so true, no truth of such account,
And for my self mine own worth do define,
As I all other in all worths surmount.
But when my glass shows me my self indeedbeated and chopt with tanned antiquity,
Mine own self-love quite contrary I read: Self, so self-loving were iniquity.
'Tis thee (my self) that for my self I praise,
Painting my age with beauty of thy days.

--William Shakespeare--
Sonnet 62

DROP DEAD GORGEOUS DECO DRESSING

I've long been a fan of Isadora's in Seattle. Known primarily for their vintage jewelry, they also offer some stunning reproductions of deco era gowns in the finest most delectable fabrics you can imagine. The bling goes from antique platinum and diamond filigree engagement rings to Victorian garnet jewelry, and, of course magnificent estate diamonds. You’ll also find couture Christian Dior, charming 1920’s cloche hats, and decorative objects for the home. Take a look . . .

This beautiful silk chiffon scarf is a perfect accent to any wedding gown. The scarf pictured is accented with delicate hand painting.

Circa 1930. This wonderful pair of German sterling marcasite earrings have a wonderful design and are accented with beautiful carnelian in a lovely burnt orange color. They measure 58mm long and 12mm wide. They are screwbacks.

Circa 1890. This beautiful antique 18KT gold snake ring has two heads. One is accented with a ruby and the other a diamond. The top of the ring measures 16mm wide and 3.5mm tall. The base of the shank measures 4mm wide and 1mm thick.

The Noelle is a beauitful bias cut gown with cowl neck and deep cowl back that dips to the waist. Criss-cross straps are a beautiful accent to this simply lovely gown.

Circa 1890. This fabulous antique Victorian earrings are composed of 18KT yellow gold and accented with sparkling diamonds. Rich blue enamel designs give these antique earrings exquisite grace and depth. The diamonds have a .32 carat total diamond weight, H-I color and VS2-SI1 clarity. They measure 37mm long and 12.5mm wide. For pierced ears. Appraisal Value: $2,185.00.

Circa 1950. This fabulous 14KT rose gold ring is centered by a wonderful emerald cut citrine. The top of this fantastic vintage ring measures 20mm wide and 13mm tall. The base of the shank measures 1.5mm x 1mm.

This version of the Stella is constructed with a beautiful silk chiffon overlay and accented with delicate irredescent beads and sequins

Circa 1920. This wonderful silver bracelet is accented with beautiful cabochon cut moonstones. It measures 11mm at its greatest width. It is 6 1/2″ in length.

Circa 1930. This beautiful 18KT white gold filigree ring is centered by a stunning 1.56 carat aquamarine stone. The top of this wonderful vintage ring measures 8.5mm wide and 8mm tall. The base of the shank measures 1mm x 1.3mm. Appraisal Value: $2,375

MOM DRESSING

mother of the bride by fairy featuring Christian Louboutin shoes

There used to be a perscibed look for bride and groom Moms. Check out any movie like Father of the Bride (1950 version) and you'll find a well turned out but premature, over-the-hill ensemble on a still going strong beauty like Myrna Loy. Traditions die hard. A new generation of Moms known for questioning tradition are finally stepping out of the accepted standard and going for looks like this emerald gem if it's flattering. Kudos to them!

4 Carat Russian Diopside and 1/2 Carat Diamond 14K White Gold Earrings
diamond.com

Wool Felt Hat Manufacturer exporting direct from China
gabi.en.alibaba.com

Christian Louboutin PIGALLE 120mm (5 Inch) Stiletto Heels
christianlouboutin-shoes.com

Ruched Dress
$50 - oli.co.uk

FALL CHIC

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top row: fall favors, bridesmaids dress, favors, hairstyle,
middle row: boutineers, cinnamon, kiss, candles, invite,
bottom row: barn, bouquet, sacks of apples, fall bride.

Check out this combo of copper, gold & latte. Made up by The Perfect Pallette it's just right for Fall. This time of year has so much to do with vineyards, farms and cozy get togethers. A wedding in these harvest months brings change; not only does the light become more ochre but bouquets are a little more rustic in both color and texture.

LACE: NEW SPINS ON AN OLD TRADITION

Max Chaoul
Lace as we know it evokes images of woven florals and scalloped edges on flounced skirts and collars. Though these time-honored looks will always be with us, lately we're seeing new spins on the use of lace in bridal wear. Not only are the traditionals like Alencon and Chantilly now used in cutting edge ways, new inventions in knit and revivals in cotton and crocheted laces are showing up. Some of it is being used discreetly on no more than a sleeve or yoke while the high drama of donning all over lace from collar to hemline is chic as well.

Rosa Clara


Stephanie Allin


Cunningham
Neil

Luisa Beccaria
Colored laces in designer collections range from the palest cream to dark ecru and pastels. I've even spotted some water-colored peau d'ange laces in a custom collection.
Here are some gowns—all lacy in some way-- that combine aspects from the finest eras styled with the contemporary bride in mind.

Colette Dinnigan
Above and below are gowns in knit and cotton laces, definitely a new spin to traditional. For the eco-conscious bride, most could easily be reworn post-wedding.
Manuel Mota

Phillipa Lepley

Above and below: What could be more practical than these romantic looking separates?

Elspeth Gibson

Roberto Cavalli

Don't you just love them? I found these little bit modern, little bit romantic Roberto Cavalli lace boots in Spanish Vogue

Givenchy

Justin Alexander
Embroidered lace combined with embellishments

Stewart Parvin

Photo: ejones photography/All Rights Reserved

Above:: Chantilly lace bodice and organza shawl with border

The history of lace making deserves an entire book or docudrama in itself and the art of making it goes back in time further than some fabric weaving. Knotting techniques actually trace back to basket making. As lace making evolved into an art form, so did demand for it.

Like fabric has a weave, lace has different patterns. Here are a few of the most common:

Alencon-Floral patterns on mesh or net background outlined in cording. Has a three-dimensional look.

Chantilly-Floral or foliage designs on a net background. Generally has a scalloped edge.

Cluny-Crocheted lace in heavy cotton also known as Irish lace. Chic in the swinging 1960s for mini wedding dresses and granny gowns.

Eyelet-Actually a woven cotton with eyelet cutouts and embroidery.

Peau d'Ange-Delicate version of Chantilly lace made with a flossier yarn.

Schiffli-Embroidered design on a mesh or organza background. Typically has a scalloped border.

Venice-Heavy lace with raised designs. Usually a single motif with an open background.

Gown by Amy-jo Tatum

Above Left: Allover Chantilly lace wedding dress.

Chantilly lace with scalloped edge

Above: Peau d'Ange lace. A delicate version of Chantilly



Eyelet bodice detail: eyelets and embroidery






Full view of eyelet dress







Gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum

THE GRACE KELLY FACTOR: GETTING THE LOOK

"Throughout both her careers, Grace had one attribute--class"
--Jimmy Stewart--

In Judith Baliban Quine's book, The Bridesmaids, she writes, "Had you been there as I was you might have realized that day, like the bride-to-be herself, was a creation brought to us through the joint production efforts of enormous willpower, Metro-Goldwin-Mayer and God." Quine goes on to say MGM was actually a late arrival on the scene as most everything that came to Grace, despite her Mainline Philadelphia birth and refined beauty, was won only through time and dedication to her work.

April 19, 1956, the world was treated to a storybook romance come true when actress Grace Kelly married Prince Rainer of Monaco. Thinking back to roles she played before she became a princess, we remember Grace Kelly as the ultimate 'Deb'. Had she not pursued acting with such determination, in all probability she would have become just that : A Mainline Philadelphia Debutante. As a result, on film she reflected that cool, refined blond to perfection.Princess Grace's gown to this day is one of the most traditional and remains the touchstone in bridal fashion. Impeccably made, the taffeta and Val lace confection was a wedding gift from MGM Studios. Imagine this: 25 yards of silk taffeta, 100 yards of silk net, and vintage Belgian rose point lace. Her headpiece was classic : a bandeau cap covered in tiny seed pearls under an intricate lace mantilla.Designed by Helen Rose who worked on Kelly's costumes for High Society and The Swan, the gown was designed and run up in less than four months if you can believe that. Hollywood by then was ace at whipping up a masterpiece if a movie or event demanded. Over thirty seamstresses labored on the gown in the MGM workrooms round the clock. From a designer's standpoint, I'd have to say the Kelly gown is the most perfect dress ever made, despite it's speedy construction time. Made up of four different components, it's actually a combination of separates all put together to look like a traditional ballgown. Studying the construction diagrams with the fitted, long-sleeved bodice and full bell skirt, this gown though cutting edge back in 1956, will always be timeless.

Getting the Look
Grace's knack for looking chic was her simplicity and that became her real trademark. Never overdone, typically she wore clean and minimal make up accentuating her Patrician beauty. Add to that pulled back hair and a classic strapless gown for evening like the image above and you have her look. Though her actual wedding gown was traditional, she could have gone with an A-line or sheath with either strapless bateau or V-neck, and still been totally In-the-Grace character mode. The good news is, A-lines look great on just about everyone and just about everyone feels like Grace Kelly in them, ie; symbolizing class and refinement. Add any fabric that has understated elegance like traditional duchesse satin and peau de soie.

Consider adding some options to your look. A shrug or bolero can cover you up for the ceremony and be removed for reception. Want another variation of that 1950s look? How about an opaque removable top in organza or lace? This too can be removed come reception time. If you're in a sheath, A-line or evening gown add a wrap or coat either in matching fabric or, for those fall/winter weddings, in peau de soie or brocade.
If you love Grace's gown and want to incorporate components in your own, start by studying the original creation. The Vogue pattern below closely emulates this design. Luckily today's bride can be more daring. Though Grace was the epitome of a refined lady in her day, she worked in a glitzy industry. Marrying a prince, she wanted to reassure the Monegasques she wasn't just another movie star blond in sequins. Setting the tone for her reign, she chose the most classic of all designs. Contemporary brides might want to experiment with a different neckline or modified skirt. Here's another idea. Grace's bodice was actually a blouse. You could experiment with a shrug or jacket over a strapless gown.


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One Wed

Romona Keveza's rendition on the ballgown Grace Kelly wore at her 'Wedding Eve' celebration.

Grace style by vivien22 featuring Monsoon bags

Always a lady, Grace's signature pieces were a pair of gloves and a hat much like the those shown here. Only the shoes are a bit off. Grace is remembered for her elegance but ironically she had somewhat stogey personal taste when it came to foot chic. Unless, that is, MGM was dressing her. Then she had the best . . .

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