GOTHIC BRIDE

Henley Photography
This is my versatile 'Eva' gown with an eerie twist. To top off a shoot we did last July, hairdresser Kathi Rothkop added a pink wig (in place of a veil) and so our Gothic bride was created. Actually, this would be a great Halloween wedding idea for the bride who is heavily into Goth . . .of course not everyone embraces this idea which makes it all the more original . . .

Photo: Henley Photography
Hair: Kathi Rothkop
Makeup: Rob Ward

HAUTE CHIC

Ian Stewart

I told myself to pass up this sweet Ian Stewart picture hat all swathed in tulle . . . . tried to convince myself its just too soon to run another post on hats because I did one two weeks back . . . . . but . . . well . . . I finally convinced myself this hat is just tooooooooo gorgeous not to share with you. I'd love to hear from anyone who is planning on wearing a hat of any kind . . . .

THE BEST OF DUTCH COUTURE

Els Hillenius

I've long been a fan of Dutch bridal couture. I discovered way back, this land of tulips, windmills and canals has a unique respect for the winter bride and knowing exactly how to dress her. Holland uses those thick and rich winter fabrics like peau and brocade in some of the most creative ways. Keep in mind at the forefront of Dutch costume is that big ruff collar and various lace treatments. You'll find scaled down and refined adaptions of the collar and plenty of lace in these collections. Nobody's forgotten the Dutch bride come spring either as you'll see below.

Envie Couture

Envie Couture

Natasja Sadi
At right is Natasja Sadi's brocade jacket with silk underdress.

Astrid Ritmeester

Astrid Ritmeester's ensembles above and below are the real deal for chilly weather brides.

Astrid Ritmeester

Jaap Rijnbende

Jaap Rijnbende
The two photos above prove Jaap Rijnbende works great looks for spring-summer as well as winter.

Above photos: The workrooms of Els Hillenius in Haarlem, Holland.

Els Hillenius

Els Hillenius

Els Hillenius

Els Hillenius

Els Hillenius

DIOR: THEN AND NOW

The above photograph is by Norman Parkinson of a Christian Dior evening gown taken decades ago. Fast-forward almost sixty years and the House of Dior is still a Paris landmark as well as global fashion phenomenon. Pictures below show the silhouette and fabrics of today’s Dior pieces. Wouldn’t you say they’re almost replicas of the original?

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The creations coming out of the House of Dior have been so consistently ultra-fem through the years. Despite the fact Dior died in 1957 and the house has employed a succession of designers for many more years than the designer reigned in his own house (ten years), they’ve all stayed true to Dior’s trademark hourglass silhouette.

Conjour up any image of fashion pre-1947 and you’ll come up with a limited selection of dark colors, shorter skirts and silhouettes that took as few yards of fabric as a wartime shortage could afford. Once the war ended and restrictions lifted, a fashion-starved Paris changed overnight when Dior premiered his, Corolle Collection in February 1947. Then editor of Vogue, Carmel Snow, dubbed it, “The New Look.” And new it was. It seemed like ages since cinched waists sat atop suddenly voluminous skirts of which took yards of fabric and many petticoats to produce. We of later generations have embraced this look we associate with the 1950s. According to vintage dealers, almost anything from this era is in short supply

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I’d say these repros by Dior this season are as real and pure as the originals. Don’t you get the idea maybe the late, great Dior has been looking down upon and blessing each designer who succeeds the next in his Parisian House?

BABY DOLL BRIDE

Monique Lhuillier

The baby doll dress is either empire or natural waisted with a full skirt and short hemline. Always youthful, the look evokes images of the light-hearted playfulness of youth. This style is just one spin-off on the Mod-look London helped create in the swinging 1960s. While all dresses sporting mini length were revolutionary back then, forty-some years later the mini is part of mainstream bridal wear, tallied up as another great option you have.

Betsey Johnson

Erin Fetherston

Elizabeth Fillmore

THE CHOCOLATE WEDDING DRESS

I couldn't believe this when I first saw it. This gorgeous little dress is--that's right--chocolate! Celebrating National Chocolate Week Ian Stuart, designer of bridal wear, along with Chantal Cody of Rococo Chocolates have actually fashioned a chocolate wedding dress. Talk about the ultimate in going green; the guests and groom ate the bride. Read more . . .

SLEEVE CHIC

Ana Tores

While sleeveless and strapless styles are still tres chic in 2009 collections, I definitely see a trend starting that could lead us back to some magnificent revivals; These inspire both traditional and cutting edge ends of the spectrum. Think of sleeves as having their very own silhouettes within the overall design itself. There are probably more variations on sleeve than any other component of your gown. I could have covered hundreds here but for the sake of time and space, I could only bring you some of the latest and most familiar.

Nadia Tettamanti



David Fielden
Above: Two different versions of the 3/4 balloon sleeve. Ana Tores organza and David Fielden's heavy lace net.
Middle photo:Nadia Tettamanti's delicate cap sleeve in embellished organza


David Fielden
Above photo: dramatic bell sleeves made of lace.

Below photos: Two versions of puffed sleeves; Kula Tsurdiu's bolero and Alan Hannah's gossamer puffs, evocative of something on a Jane Austen character.



Kula Tsurdiu

Alan Hannah

Alan Hannah
Lace against skin tone pops as well as creating the very romantic mood of the two short sleeved gowns above and below.


Pronovias

Sorelle Franceschi

Above: 3/4 length sleeve

Jenny Packham



Valentino

Delsa

Antonio Berardi

For the bride with theatrical whimsy, modified pagoda sleeves give this extraordinary gown above a touch of costume chic.

Sorelle Franceschi

Above and below: Variations on Sorelle Franceschi's bishop sleeves

Sorelle Franceschi

Sorelle Franceschi